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French Wine

Overview

  • French Appellation System
  • French Wine Glossary
  • French Winemaking

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French Wine

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Though it is second to Italy in terms of volume, no country other than France can say that it has had a bigger influence on the wine regions of the world by way of viticultural practices, winemaking techniques, and grape varieties.

 

It is a well known fact that certain French wines have become nothing less than mythic in status. In many parts of the world, the names of these wines have become so synonymous with the perfection of a style, that local winemakers have simply appropriated them as their own. This is evidence enough that the model of French wine has been the benchmark against which greatness elsewhere must be judged. But France is more than a region of mythic, and too often copied wines; it is the center of the winemaking world.

 


French Wine Regulations/Appellation System

The regulation system in France reflects the distinctly French concept of terroir: the idea that the defining characteristics of a wine are determined in large part by the combination of climate and terrain from which it originates. The system, known as the Appellation d'Origine Controllee (AOC) was devised to honor this concept in the 1930's. Based on the concept of local, honest, consistent winemaking practices AOC wines are produced on the most prestigious terroirs. A set of quality regulations also governs these wines; designated production areas, low maximum yields, varieties used, minimum alcohol content, cultivation techniques, tasting criteria and sometimes even specific aging conditions are aspects of winemaking that come under AOC scrutiny. In addition, certain regions can be designated to produce only a single type of wine, as in the case of Pomerol where winemakers may only choose the proportions of locally grown Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc that they use in their blends. In Burgundy most winemakers not making simple generics have even fewer options, Chardonnay for white, or Pinot Noir for red. France has approximately 400 AOC wine appellations, all of which undergo analysis and tasting to be officially approved. All in all, they make up about 40% of total French wine production today.


One clear advantage to this system is that in France regional prestige can be preserved through the standardizing of winemaking practices. It has also helped to protect the individuality of France's best known wines and thus encourage the proliferation of French wine grape varieties outside of France. But it is not without its drawbacks. The stringency of these regulations has more or less halted progressive winemaking in its tracks. And in areas where clearly inferior grape varieties should be substituted for better ones, regulations will not allow it.


This dilemma, however, has been somewhat mitigated by France's creation of alternate quality tiers of regulated wines. The largest of these, the Vins de Pays (“country wines”), accounts for about 40% of wine production. It is a much less stringently regulated category, as the Vins de Pays appellations generally allow winemakers much more freedom in how they may source their fruit and create their blends. This makes for a lot of interesting possibilities within the category, such as the ability of French wine makers to present their take on wine styles popularized in other parts of the world. In a sense, many of these can be considered French “New World” wines, and they can be quite good. A prime case in point would be the single varietal wines made in the south—a style very much a creation of the New World, but exceptionally French in its execution

 

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French Wine Regions

France does not have the monopoly on fine wine production, but its geographical position is exceptionally favored for growing a wide range of different styles of grapes with an exceptional balance of sugar and acidity. Geographically and climatically, it is divided into three distinct regions. Southern France can be described as having a Mediterranean climate, and as such grape growers there have no problem achieving ripeness in their fruit. The ample days of sunshine make these wines full and powerful, as characterized by those of the iconic region Cheateauneuf du Pape. The bulk of French wines as a whole actually originates in the south of the country—mostly in the form of the so-called “country wines” made in the Languedoc and Roussillon regions. Two-hundred year old Bordeaux Chateaux be damned, these wines at their finest present some of the best wine values not only in France, but in the world.

 

     The major wine growing regions on the Atlantic coast, Bordeaux and the western Loire Valley, have a maritime climate. There the alternating hot and cool weather patterns account for some of the worlds most rare and sought after wines. The sweet wine of Sauternes, for example, is made possible by the muggy summers of Bordeaux, which create the perfect conditions for a beneficial mold to set on the ripening grapes. This mold dehydrates the grapes and effectively concentrates their flavors, resulting in what is the worldwide standard for dessert wine. In the north, where there is a continental climate of often severe winters and cooler, sometimes rainy falls, slower ripening grapes such as Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are used to produce the fine French wines of Champagne and Burgundy. And in Alsace, a range of varieties is found—from dry, fragrant Riesling, perfumed Gewürztraminer, to full bodied Pinot Gris.

 

 

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Key Features of French Winemaking

One of the widely adopted practices that the French first perfected is vital to the success of their wines: assemblage. It is a concept that encompasses the entire crucial operation in the production of fine wines of deciding which lots will be mixed together to make up the final blend. Of almost ritual significance in the creation of red Bordeaux, the elite Chateaux select and blend only the very best lots for their marquee wine, or Grand Vin. Rejected lots are often then blended into a second, much more inexpensive wine, or sold off in bulk to another winemaker carrying a generic appellation. In Champagne, the extent of this technique is taken to the extreme, as some of the blends are assembled from several hundred different wines. There, perhaps more so than any other region, the complementary nature of each component is of great importance in creating a successful wine.

 

     The selection process for the final blend typically takes place between the third and sixth month after the harvest. It is at this time when the skill of the winemaker must meet the will of the proprietor, who must bear a considerable financial sacrifice for exclusions from the Grand Vin. Ultimately, it is the selectiveness of the the Grand Vin that makes it three or four more times the price of the associated second wine. The procedure is as simple as tasting samples from each cuvee or fermentation vessel and then simply deciding whether it meets the standard of the different wines. But not quite as simply, the winemaker must then foresee how the wines will develop together over time, as a single blend. Tremendous skill in this practice, along with a will to release only the finest of products, is among the top requirements of an elite Chateau.

 

 

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French wine glossary

Blanc – White

Brut – Refers to the amount of sugar in French Sparkling wines. It indicates that the shipping dosage contains very little sugar, only between 6 and 15 grams per bottle, which is just enough to temper the acidity of the wine. “Brut zero” is the term used when no sugar is added. The dosage is made of ccane sugar dissolved in wine and is added just before the final corking of the bottles.
Chateau – An AOC wine estate. The term is used broadly, however, even if the operation does not contain an actual château, or castle. Château Petrus in Pomerol, for example, is a good case in point, as the property of the iconic producer includes no castle at all, but rather only a simple winery located on a highly prestigious terroir.
Cremant – In 1974 this appellation designation was created to encompass the higher quality regional French sparkling wines. And in many regions, Crémants are also designated as AOC wines. For example, Cremant d'Alsace and Cremant de Bourgogne make up the exceptional sparkling wines of Alsace and Burgundy, respectively. One may also find cremants in Languedoc, Bordeaux, the Loire Valley.
Cru – This term is used, however broadly at times, to convey the idea of identifying a wine with a specific production area and terroir. It is at the heart of French wine classification systems in regions such as Champagne, Burgundy and Bordeaux, where it most often refers to specific vineyard.  In other regions, such as Beaujolais, the word cru refers to entire wine producing villages which include numerous vineyards. 
Demi-sec –
A sparkling wine that contains 35-50 grams of sugar per liter.
Doux – Term used for wines with natural residual sugars, like a Vin Doux Naturel (Natural Sweet Wine).
Extra-dry – A sparkling wine that contains 12-20 grams of sugar per liter.
Grand vin – Term used by larger chateaux and estates to indicate their marquee product.  The highest standards of quality for an estate are presented in their Grand Vin.

Methode Champenoise – The technique for producing sparkling wine that is the same as used for making champagne. The process is used in many appellations, and is sometimes referred to in French as the méthode traditionnelle.
Negociant – A wine merchant, that plays a larger role than just buying and reselling wine. In the major winegrowing regions, a négociant-éleveur will purchase wines in the early stages of production and will carry out the blending, maturation and aging processes up until the wine is bottled.
Negociant-manipulant – A term used in Champagne that refers to négociants who buy grapes to make their own champagnes.
P
etillant – French term that describes a wine with less carbon dioxide than a sparkling wine but more than one that could be described as spritzy.
Rouge – Red
Rose – Pink
Saignee – Rosé de saignée. A rosé made from red grapes that undergo only a short maceration to acquire a pink color, but none of the grape's tannins. These rosés are more powerful than the rosés de pressurage, which are rosés produced from red grapes using the production method for white wines.
Selection de grains nobles – Meaning “selection of noble berries, ” and used most notably in Alsace and Alsace Grand Cru appellations made from Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Tokay-Pinot Gris and Muscat. In these wines, the grapes must meet strict production requirements, including an extremely high concentration of sugar (256 to 279 grams per liter, depending upong the grape variety). These super sweet berries are obtained by over ripening the bunches so that they can be infected by noble rot. Harvesting is completed in multiple passes by hand, picking only the finest infected grapes for the wine. Considering this labour intensive process, these wines are very expensive--but they are the very definition of pure French wine luxury.

 

 

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