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Burgundy Wine
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Throughout its long history, this fairly small sized French wine region has produced some of the world's most sought-after, expensive, and exquisite wines.
But while Burgundy has certainly reached the heights over the years, and will no doubt continue to do so, its story is not necessarily one of consistency. This is in large part due to the fact that, of all the wine regions in the world famous for red wine, Burgundy is the coolest and most northern. Even the most southerly parts of Burgundy lie too far north to ripen grapes reliably every year. In addition, whereas growers in other regions are allowed to blend a variety of grapes, and thus mitigate seasons which are unfavorable to certain grape varieties, Burgundy's fine wine producers are allowed only two styles to work with: Chardonnay for white, or Pinot Noir for red (the exception to this rule is the white grape Aligote, which appears mainly in generic white Bourgogne, and the red Gamay grape which is almost completely exclusive to Beaujolais).
History has testified that it is much to Burgundy's favor that both grapes achieve their greatest elegance when planted in a relatively cool climate, but the downside of this is that there are years when the lack of sun and or the frequency of rain results in grapes that are not fully ripened and mature, leading to considerably weaker, less flavorful wines. Although less so in the present due to global increases in temperature, historically these less than ideal years have not been uncommon, and as a result, there can be very apparent differences among vintages of Burgundy.
Given these conditions, even the most pedigreed and priciest Burgundies can turn out disappointing. And so the effects of Burgundy's idiosyncrasies have always been a double edged sword. When it succeeds, Burgundy attains a fleshliness and a physicality that is rare and dear in the world of wine. Unlike many types of wine, great Burgundy, both red and white, can send a pleasure tremor up your spine and explode upon your tongue in ways that you will not forget.
Also a key step to understanding the unique character of Burgundy is knowing how a Burgundian domaine differs from the concept of an estate or a chateau in the Bordeaux wine region. In Bordeaux a chateau is a single estate composed of vineyards surrounding a building or house. In Burgundy a domaine is a collection of vineyard parcels, often extremely small, owned by the same person or entity. These parcels are usually scattered throughout many villages and appellations and the domaine may produce separate wines from each. This is why a typical Burgundian domaine produces a collection of many wines in relatively small quantities, and often with a number of different labels.
Perhaps the most well known example is the vineyard Clos de Vougeot. At 125 acres, Clos de Vougeot has upwards of eighty different owners, all of whom make a wine called Clos de Vougeot. A good corollary would be to say that a Burgundian vineyard is somewhat like a condominium. There are several owners, all of whom own distinct parcels of the complex and live and work independently of one another. Still, each of the separate parts is only a smaller portion of the same complex. Most growers in fact own many small parcels of many different vineyards in many different villages. And for the top wines, though not for the basic ones, the grapes from those parcels will almost never be blended together. This is another prime reason why the conventional tidy image of a wine estate surrounded by vineyards isn't really applicable to Burgundy. return to top
How to Choose Burgundy
There is no doubt that Burgundy keeps you guessing, and buying good examples at inexpensive prices can be very tricky indeed. Buyers should be wary not to blindly expect that a bottle bearing the name of a famous appellation, say Chablis or Pouilly Fuisse, will be a world-class wine experience. So a little background on how this strange appellation works is imperative to knowing exactly what your are buying.
One should bear in mind that one of the reasons the best vineyards are considered the best is because they tend to lie in the sunniest spots. So even in what are, for the most part, cloudy, rainy years, the wines from certain sunnily sited vineyards often turn out better than wines from neighboring vineyards . There's another consideration. Lots of rain falling intermittently throughout the summer brings with it the risk of rot, which in turn, brings with it the potential for strange flavors in the wine. There are many interrelated precautions Burgundian growers take to guard against rot and the resulting off flavors. The final precaution is to be extremely selective when the grapes are harvested, so that all rotten bunches and even rotten berries are sorted out. So key to getting your hands on a good Burgundy is knowing how to read the local appellation on the bottle, whether it is named for a village, or from a specific vineyard, and then to look carefully to see if it is from a producer whose name can be relied upon. Many of these producers are named further on in this article.
A fairly good way of guessing what the name on the bottle refers to, whether it is a specific vineyard or a larger region, is to know that on the bottle vineyards are often preceded by a definite article, such as Le Chambertin, Le Montrachet, La Tache, etc.. If the bottle simply states a place name such as Pommard, Beaune, or Volnay, that indicates that the wines are village wines. It is important to to also note that many villages in Burgundy use a hyphenated name in order to attach the notoriety of their superstar vineyard in its title. For example, the village Chambolle-Musigny used to be called just Chambolle until it appended the name of its most famous vineyard, Le Musigny, to its own name. Similarly, the village Aloxe added the name of its renowned vineyard Le Corton to become the village of Aloxe-Corton, and the village of Gevrey became Gevrey-Chambertin by incorporating the vineyard Le Chambertin into its name. return to top
Types of Burgundy
Bourgogne Pinot Noir/Red Burgundy Being temperamental as it is, Pinot Noir will produce wines that possess finesse, nuance, and complexity only when it is planted in a cool place so that the grapes are allowed to ripen slowly and methodically over a relatively long period of time. When Pinot Noir is planted in a hot, sun-drenched site, the grapes may literally explode with ripeness, leading to wines that are often too intensely fruity to be interesting. Because Burgundy is a cool place, its Pinot Noir wines are rarely massive, syrupy, and overtly fruity. Instead, at their best they are intensely flavored but have a light to medium body and an almost ballet-like gracefulness.
White Burgundy/Bourgogne Blanc While Chardonnay can be and is planted in quite warm places around the world, many ardent Chardonnay lovers would argue that the most nuanced and elegant wines come from grapes that are grown in cooler spots. The problem in Burgundy however is never too much sun but the threat of too little. A rainy September can mean the grapes will never experience the necessary push of ripeness just before the harvest season. Chardonnay wine made from grapes that are not completely ripe can taste hollow and lacking, just as an unripe apricot can. Thus, years that are not very sunny overall can result in a lot of weakly flavored white Burgundy.
But make no mistake about it, the tiny vineyards in each of Burgundy's five wine-producing regions, from Chablis in the north to Beaujolais in the south, can produce wines that, at their best, are unequaled anywhere else. There are, for example, many delicious Chardonnays to be found throughout the world, but none that could be mistaken for a traditional unoaked or lightly oaked grand cru Chablis.
One of the reasons the best vineyards are considered the best is because they tend to lie in the sunniest spots. So even in what are, for the most part, cloudy, rainy years, the wines from certain sunnily sited vineyards often turn out better than wines from neighboring vineyards . There's another consideration. Lots of rain falling intermittently throughout the summer brings with it the risk of rot, which in turn, brings with it the potential for strange flavors in the wine. There are many interrelated precautions Burgundian growers take to guard against rot and the resulting off flavors. The final precaution is to be extremely selective when the grapes are harvested, so that all rotten bunches and even rotten berries are sorted out.
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When to drink BurgundyGenerally speaking, the more simple the appellation, the younger the wine can and should be drunk. Wines in the basic Burgundy category, whether Bourgogne, Bourgogne Blanc, or Bourgogne Superieur, can most definitely be enjoyed immediately after release. While these wines may benefit from some extra time to mature, they are not usually complex enough to gain a whole lot from cellaring in the long run. It is more important be be mindful rather that these wines should not be held too long, and thus lose any vitality that they may have once had. Burgundy wines with village appellations however, can benefit from a few years in the bottle after release. With some time, these wines will acquire much more aromatic complexity than they have in their youth. Premier Cru and Grand Cru Burgundies should usually be given at least five years before one even thinks about opening them up, and in some cases these wines can be kept for up to thirty years
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Generic Burgundy
On a bottle of generic Burgundy you will most likelyfind the word Bourgogne, which is the French name for both the region of Burgundy, and the wines thereof. Generic Burgundies can come as red, white, and very occasionally rose. In general a bottle simply labeled Bourgogne will refer to wines that have sourced grapes from all over the region, without any particular affiliation to a specific vineyard or subregion.
The generic appellations of Bourgogne Aligote, Bourgogne Blanc, and Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire cover the white wines. The contents of Bourgogne Aligote are clear enough, but Bourgogne Blanc, which is usually made of only Chardonnay grapes, sometimes may also be made with Pinot Blanc and or Pinot Gris. Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire enjoys a little bit more flexibility as it may contain Chardonnay, Aligote, Melon de Bourgogne, and in some areas the obscure Sacy varietal.
For red Burgundy the generic appellations also come in three versions. The one you are most likely to encounter will be Bourgogne Rouge, which typically will be a pure Pinot Noir. If the grapes are sourced from a vineyard in Beaujolais however, the wine may actually be made from Gamay, the dominant red grape in the region. With the second most common generic, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, Gamay usually plays the dominant role in a cuvee that must include at least one third Pinot Noir. Winemakers are also allowed to throw in a dose of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and or Pinot Gris to create this typically cheap mishmash of a wine that is meant to be drunk young. A very small amount of pink wine is bottled and sold as Bourgogne Rose, but it would be very unlikely to encounter this outside of France.
Although it is not required, Bourgogne of whatever color may be followed by a geographical suffix, either denoting a region, as in Hautes Cotes de Nuits, or Hautes Cotes de Beaune; a village, such as Chitry, Coulanges-Ia-Vineuse, Irancy; or in certain cases a vineyard, such as La Chapelle Notre Dame, and Le Chapitre.
Bourgogne, be it white or red, presents a wide spectrum of both wine style and quality. It is understandable that some excellent wines can be achieved under this appellation when in many cases growers are situated just outside of a high-quality village appellations. Not only do these growers often fashion their wines in the image of the expensive appellation that they neighbor, but they can offer them at a much lower price. Find a wine from a reliable merchant in a classic region, and you just may have an opportunity to enjoy a top-notch Burgundy at a generic price.
recommended generic Burgundies...
 Dureuil-Janthial Bourgogne
Aligote $14
Tasting Notes: Has some pronounced Chablis-like characteristics, with citrus and herbs among the aromatics. Creamy and rich like a Chablis but at a third of the price. Comment: This wine should be widely available and will be a great wine to introduce people to the delicacy and finesse of a true Burgundy without all the intimidating mysteries of terroir. Food Pairing: fish | shellfish | pork | aperitif When to Drink: Drink young Service Temperature: 12°C | 54°F
Tasting Notes: Brilliant golden yellow in color with sweet aromatic fruit, almond paste and honey. Smooth and mouth-coating and velvety with a nicely mineral backbone. This wine is light and elegant. Comment: This wine manages to demonstrate sensations characteristic of Rully, Chablis and Puligny-Montrachet all at once but at an affordable price. Very reliable and a good value. Food Pairing: aperitif | shellfish | grilled fish | pasta with cream sauce When to Drink: Drink
young and fresh Service Temperature: 13°C | 55°F
Joseph Drouhin Véro Pinot Noir Bourgogne $21
Tasting Notes: Red with ruby tones, notes of cherry and raspberry and a dash of pepper waiting in the background. Fresh and supple with a nice tone of licorice that unfolds into a harmonious choir of fresh red berries. Comment: From Veronique Drouhin's personal selection of Pinot Noir produce originating all over Burgundy. Her skills assure with each release a classic red Burgundy that is elegant and well structured. Food Pairing: aperitif | grilled red meats | salmon | duck | medium to rich cheeses When to Drink: Drink within 5 years of release Service Temperature: 16°C | 62°F
Maison Champy Signature Pinot Noir Bourgogne $28
Tasting Notes: Very deep ruby color with shades of violet. The aromatics are expressive of dark red fruits amid a harmonious touch of oak. The texture is smooth and soft. Comment: Grapes selected from parcels near Nuits Saint Georges and Premeaux Prissey. Matured in new oak barrels for 15 months. Food Pairing: light cheese entrees | roasted meats | cream sauces When to Drink: 2 to 3 years after release Service Temperature: 14°C | 58°F
Joseph Faiveley Pinot Noir
Bourgogne $20
Tasting Notes: Lovely ruby colors with pleasant fresh fruit aromas. Rich, ripe, and round. Comment: This wine is aged up to two years in French oak prior to release. This treatment provides the backbone to one of Burgundy's most reliable Pinot Noirs. And it is always ready to be drunk upon release. Food
Pairing: pork |
grilled red meats | medium to rich cheeses When to Drink: Up to 5 years after release Service Temperature: 15°C | 59°F
Jean-Claude Boisset Chardonnay Bourgogne $16
Tasting Notes: Notes of light white flowers come from crystalline reflections in an attractive pool of yellow. Delicate and polished. Comment: Brings together the minerality of the Yonne, the richness of the Cote d'Or, and the pleasant drinkability of the Macon region. Grapes are all hand picked and matured in oak barrels for 10 months. Food Pairing: rich cheese | spicy asian | curry When to Drink: Enjoy young, or cellar up to 8 years Service Temperature: 11°C | 52°F
Domaine Vincent Sauvestre Bourgogne Pinot Noir $11
Tasting Notes: This is always a supple wine and fresh. The fruit of this domaine is full of Pommard character. Comment: From vineyards situated primarily in the superstar appellation of Pommard, and in Meursault, where the vinification and bottling of the wine takes place. Half of the cuvee is aged for 9 months in oak barrels and the other half in stainless steel. Food Pairing: pork | red meats | earthy entrees | pasta When to Drink: Drink young and fresh Service Temperature: 15°C | 59°F
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