|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||||
Beaujolais
|
 Gamay, the red wine grape of Beaujolais The east central France district of Beaujolais,while technically a subregion of Burgundy, is completely distinct from Burgundy in wine terms. With climate, topography, soil types, and even in distribution of grape varieties, it is quite different. Its idiosyncratic wine style is also much different, in many ways the antithesis of the rich, barrel matured wines typical to the rest of Burgundy. At its best, Beaujolais is endlessly enjoyable and with no pretensions, a youthful, zesty antidote to generously oaked reds. It is most certainly a unique wine that, if well made and well priced, will always find an enthusiastic following. For most of its history Beaujolais was regarded as little more than a mass produced jug wine. Only decades ago, as a popular quaffing wine, it was served by the ladle in the bistros of Paris and Lyon. The turning point came when a young local grape grower named Georges Duboeuf launched a negociant business focused on championing the fresh and drinkable style of the wine. Duboeuf's Beaujolais was always packaged and released as fresh, and marketed exactly as it was: red refreshment in a bottle, a juicy aroma combined with appetizing acidity. With a new image, the cherryish wine was noticed throughout the world. Although not known for its whites, Chardonnay and Aligote grapes are also used to make a very small amount of white Beaujolais each year. It has been widely observed that in Beaujolais white grapes do best on patches of limestone, and are planted mainly on these outcroppings in the north of the region. For this reason they are effectively southern neighbors of Macon Blanc and taste exactly like it.
How Beaujolais is madeBeaujolais is distinguished not just by the Gamay grape, but by its characteristic wine-making method, carbonic maceration. During it, clusters of grapes are put whole into the fermenting tank and fermentation literally takes place inside each grape. The process, which can be used for any type of grape, typically results in wines with vibrant fruit flavors and almost no perceptible tannin—but it happens to be particularly successful with ultrafruity grapes, such as Gamay.
The Appellations of BeaujolaisWhether the wine is made in a traditional or commercial way French regulations define three categories of Beaujolais. In ascending quality (and price) they are Beaujolais, Beaujolais-Villages, and Beaujolais Cru. The basic appellation is AOC Beaujolais, of which on average 80 million bottles are produced each year. About half of all Beaujolais is sold under this basic appellation. The grapes for these wines come from less distinguished vineyards in the south, and the wines do tend to be lighter, with less concentration of fruit flavors. But there are a number of exceptions to this rule which may present a nice value. A small amount may be also marketed as Beaujolais Superieur, for which the minimum potential alcohol of the grapes when picked must be slightly higher. A step up in quality is AOC Beaujolais Villages, which comes from 39 villages in the hilly midsection of the region. This entire section of Beaujolais is known to yield much better grapes, and Beaujolais-Villages wines are generally made with a blend of grapes from various parcels within it. Beaujolais Villages is a wine to do everything, but it is especially suited to simple and rustic cuisine. It goes perfectly pork, mushrooms, pâtés, meat and light cheeses.The friendliness of the wine, however, demands that it must be consumed in its early years to maintain its lively fruitiness and freshness. Better still are the Beaujolais Cru, which refers to ten special villages in the northern part of Beaujolais (note: in Beaujolais the word “cru” does not indicate a vineyard as it does in other French regions-such as in grand cru Chablis). The crus, north to south, are: St. Amour, Julienas, Chenas, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, Chiroubles, Morgon, Regnie, Brouilly, and Cote de Brouilly. These wines are the most ageworthy and serious wines of the region, and good number of them are even barrel matured and seasoned with oak. They are still unmistakably Beaujolais, however, fruity and lively, yet with a bit more complexity than the basic appellations. Considering this, and the fact that they rarely go for over 30 dollars a bottle, these can be fun wines to try. Some of them can be among the best values of all the French AOC wines. return to top
Serving and storingGeneric Beaujolais is always best drunk within a year of release. Beaujolais-Villages will usually have just enough depth to last for two years, and most Crus for about three. Traditionally vinified wines from the Crus, particularly Morgan, Moulin-a-Vent, Fleurie, and Julienas, can improve in bottle for up to 10 years from a very good vintage. One should expect though, that with time, the more serious Beaujolais will tend to taste increasingly like a northern red Burgundy. Oddly, the fruitiness of the Gamay can mellow into something akin to an aged Pinot Noir. One should most definitely chill the wine, as is customary in the region. Fifteen to twenty minutes in the refrigerator should bring it down to its optimal temperature of about 54°F. When properly chilled, the fruit flavors of Beaujolais can reach the peak of their liveliness. A couple Beaujolais food pairing ideas:
return to top
Buying Beaujolais
Always look for good individual estates and merchants, like Georges Duboeuf and Louis Jadot. Unfamiliar estates and sold in supermarkets should be treated with suspicion, as generic blended Beaujolais can simply be lackluster, thin liquid that is in all senses disappointing. With Beaujolais, it is quite often the case that an ultra-commercial domaine bottled wine may well be the most direct route to value and quality.
Buying Guide: Top Beaujolais Cru Wines Under $30
Fleurie A number of top class producers in this region create what is one of the most fragrant and elegant of the red Beaujolais. Their best wines are consistently velvety and full of fruit, with lilting floral notes that provide a fine corollary to the more masculine, forward style of Beaujolais that emerges from vineyards in regions such as Morgon. Domaine Chignard Cuvée Spéciale Gamay Fleurie $25 
Tasting notes: Color of ruby, the mouth is full and round, with pepper and a very light nuance of blackberry. Strawberry and wood accompany a soft spice that emerges along with ripe, small red fruits. Comment: This wine could faithfully be described as the prototype of this appellation. It's wealth of nuance makes it a versatile compliment to a wide range of meals. Food pairing: spicy entrees | light to medium cheeses | vinegary dressings | salads | deli meats When to drink: 3-5 years after release Service temperature: 12°C | 54°F
Moulin-a-Vent
 Louis Jadot Chateau des Jacques
Red Blend Moulin-à-Vent $22
Tasting notes: Fleshy in texture, and fruity when young. Comment: Aged in barrels for six months, this wine is as long lived and complex as Beaujolais can get. At 10 years after release the fruit of its youth will be concentrated and mellow. Food pairing: game meats | beef | rich cheeses | earthy entrees When to drink: Drink young, or keep for 10 years+ Service temperature: 13°C | 54°F
Tasting notes: Purple glints from dark crimson red, lively and floral with iris and violet, velvety, notes of vanilla and black fruit. Comment: The grapes come from a vineyard in the north of the region, closer to the territory more typical of red Burgundy wines. This wine leans toward that style, it is long lived and will develop a nice complexity with a little time. Food pairing: game meats | beef | rich cheeses | earthy entrees | rich poultry | pork | figs | cabbage When to drink: Between 3-7 years after release, keep up to 10 years Service temperature: 14°C | 56°F
Joseph Drouhin Moulin-a-Vent $20
Tasting notes: The wine is a rich purple and smells of spiced fruit. It is elegant and smooth on the palate. Comment: This is a versatile wine, it has a good concentration and ability to age. You will have a hard time finding a Beaujolais that is a better value for your money. Food pairing: white meats | mature cheese | poultry | earthy entrees When to drink: Drink young, or keep 7-15 years Service temperature: 14°C | 57°F
Julienas Wines from Julienas are known to be very high in tannins and acidity, which givesthem the backbone required to age well and the strength to stand up to rich, hearty meals. In youth, these wines can have a lot of vigor, especially in certain of the wines which have a lower acidity,but with time, they will become amore spicyand complex.
Grapes: 100% Gamay Tasting notes: Juicy and powerful, richly colored, full of ripe fruitiness. Comment: From 55 year old vines and aged in oak for 11 months. Food pairing: appetizers | red meats | earthy entrees | medium to rich cheese When to drink: Drink young, or keep for 5 years+ Service temperature: 14°C | 57°F
Domaine du Moulin Berger Vayolette Gamay Juliénas $20
Tasting notes: Elegant mingling of violet and blackberry, with an aroma a taste of crushed red fruit. Comment: From 40 year old vines the grapes are hand harvested and macerated for 10 days. The wine is then matured in oak for up to 6 months. Produced on an entirely organic estate. Food pairing: deli meats and cheeses | duck | earthy entrees | pork | red meats | salads When to drink: Drink between 2-5 years after release Service temperature: 13°C | 54°F
Morgon Perhaps the most masculine in body, Morgon is another of the Beaujolais Cru that produces wines that have the ability to age. They typically have a deep purple hue and are aromatic of thick fleshed fruit such as apricot and peach. When shopping, keep in mind that the best Beaujolais of Morgon originates in the subdistrict of Cote du Puy.
Marcel Lapierre Gamay Morgon $22
Description: Strong licorice notes, with dark cherry and violet, this wine is rich with flavor. Comment: This estate proudly proclaims its aim to marry technological finesse with tried and true old world methods. The vines average an age of 45 years, mostly in Villie-Morgon but with one lone vineyard located in the prime real estate of the Cote du Puy. Food pairing: appetizers | spicy entrees | red meats | mature cheese | poultry When to drink: Drink young, or keep 5-10 years Service temperature: 13°C | 55°F
Grapes: 100% Gamay Description: Ruby colored, cranberry aromas and dark, earthy fruit. Faint with tannin, and smooth, with notes of earth and smoke. Comment: Comes from an organic estate bearing 70 year old vines. These vines yield little fruit, but what they do yield is as concentrated and austere as the very best Gamay. The wine is aged in oak for 6 to 8 months in barrels that come from the iconic Burgundian Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Food pairing: red meats | spicy entrees | mature cheese | poultry When to drink: Drink between 3-7 years after release Service temperature: 13°C | 54°F
Chateau de Pizay Morgon $15
Description: Intense crimson color, the wine is full and tannic with flavor and aroma of kirsh, cherry, and apricot. Comment: From vines with an average age of 45 years. Food pairing: spicy entrees | mature cheese | deli meats | curry When to drink: Drink between 3-7 years after release Service temperature: 13°C | 56°F return to top
return to top
|
Image Gallery
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
Grapes: 
Grapes: 
Domaine de
Gry-Sablon Cuvée Tradition Gamay Juliénas $17
